Module Legs

It's been a while since I've posted an update ...life happens fast!  I have been thinking about module legs and what to do with the first module frames I built with the intent that they would be a yard or perhaps staging.  I originally built folding legs since these modules are 6' in length and could accept the long legs utilized for Free-moN rail head height standard of 50".  Since the legs overlapped when folded they needed to be offset from each other resulting in leg sets somewhat narrower than the already narrow 12" module width.  The height, narrow leg sets, and hinged mounting all contributed to make the modules less stable than I desired.  I realize stability increases once modules are set up but I still had concerns in case I wanted to use these modules as end point staging in a setup.  They would then only be connected on one end cutting back on the desired stability.

So I was trying to decide if I really wanted to use the modules.  Before scrapping them I decided to try a different leg attachment.  I proceeded to rebuild one of the module's legs sets as fixed (bolt or clamp on). The leg sets were broader and were attached much more firmly than with the plain hinges and folding braces as before.  As you would guess this did increase stability somewhat.  About that time I ran across a post on the Free-moN Yahoo Group that mentioned the use of conduit for legs.  So I proceeded to fabricate a set of conduit legs for the second module.

I purchased some 1/2" metal electrical conduit.  Adjustable feet, allowance for module deck thickness, roadbed, etc. will determine exact length but each leg needed to be somewhere north of 48".  Two 10' lengths were sufficient to make four legs and were only around a couple of dollars a piece.  A small pipe cutter made fairly quick work of cleanly cutting the legs to length.  I cut 45 degree corner braces out of some plywood scrap and attached a 10-24 x 5/16 T-nut centered on the back side of each.  I then mounted them into each corner of the module using four screws.

I used a 3/16" x 2" eye bolt as a set screw in the T-nut  to effectively secure each conduit leg into the corner of the module.

This view shows the legs attached at one end of the module.  The corner braces and end plate will be painted to match the module frame and seal the wood against moisture.

Here is a view of the module standing on its new legs.  Being in the corners of the frame the legs are effectively braced on two sides and seem to provide a significantly sturdier stance than the wooden leg sets I fabricated for the other module.  I plan to play with adjusting module height by adjusting the set of the legs in their respective "pockets".  If that is too finicky I plan to press fit a hex nut (as mentioned in the Yahoo Groups posting) into the bottom of each leg to accept an eye bolt for height adjustment.

 

Some advantages of the conduit legs are they are simple to fabricate, interchangeable, easy to transport, relatively inexpensive, and they don't require painting.  Now I just need to decide if I want to retrofit the other staging/yard module and ultimately the Tarragona Street and other modules for the Pensacola scene.

Framing The First "Re-designed" Modules

I was finally able to start assembling the first two re-designed modules this past week.  A couple of weekends were lost to the opportunity of attending an operating session on a friend's layout as well as an "Op 'til you drop" weekend ...a worthwhile trade in my opinion!

I decided the original modules started for this project were too unstable at only 12" width.  I set those aside and may reconfigure them for staging at some point in the future.  The sides, ends, and plywood decks for these new modules have been cut for some time but other responsibilities have taken precedence.  They are 15.75" before fascia is installed.  This is slightly wider than the plans but since the tracks are centered on the modules I'm essentially just adding a little real estate to each side of the track.  The overall length of each module is 48".
 

Back to assembly. This photo shows the frame pieces and top deck for one module prior to assembly.  The dimensions of       the frame members were checked again for accuracy.  The end plates were marked and then drilled with a countersink bit and attached to the side frame members using three 1.5" screws on each side ...6 total on each end.  Once everything checked out with the dry assembly the end plates were removed and yellow carpenter's glue was used at each joint and the frame was reassembled making sure the joints were snug and the screw heads were sufficiently countersunk so as not to remain proud.  This is important since the module ends will have to butt snugly once assembled.

The plywood tops were about 1/16" too long once the frames were assembled so I used a sacrficial fence on my table saw so I could shave just a bit off each for an exact fit.  The plywood was then dropped into place and attached with screws along each edge.  The plywood tops rest on the side frames and between the end plates.  Once these steps were completed I sanded all sides, ends, and edges to eliminate any rough or sharp edges. 

The next step was to build legs for the modules.  I had previously ripped some 1 inch stock into 1.5" x 47 " strips for the legs.  I had some 7/16" plywood so I decided to use that for the spreader plates for the leg assemblies.  I carefully measured the inside dimensions of the modules and cut the plates that width and just deep enough to slip up inside the module end plates between the side pieces.  I assembled them to the legs with 1" screws.  I plan to use bolts through the spreaders and end plates to attach the leg sets to the modules.  Where two modules join the bolts will also hold the end plates together between the leg sets.  I used this method on a previous modular layout with great success so am sticking to methods that have proven successful for me.  I also ripped a smaller spreader plate to use at the bottom of each leg set.  It's top edge is 10" from the bottom of the leg.  I wanted something far enough down the leg to help maintain rigidity but also be far enough off the floor to allow the top to be used as a shelf support so a shelf can be used to store boxes and other items under the layout when it is set up.

Once the legs were complete for the first two modules I clamped them in place to see how they looked and the result is shown in this photo. The new wider modules and their leg sets are remarkably sturdy and stable ...especially once joined with each other. I expect the corner module will add even more stabuility to the layout.  I couldn't resist getting out my research notebook along with a couple of cars and turnouts to check dimensions and start getting a feel for the overall layout of track, structures, etc.

Now to get the remaining two modules framed!

Module Construction Begins!

Tonight I cut some roll cork to fit the plywood decks I cut for the first two modules.  Since the modules will depict track in city streets, a couple of spurs, and two small yards they will be flat with no change in grade for the tracks.  As such I am using simple box frame construction with plywood tops.  I am using cork to dampen the vibration and resonance of running trains.  Since the modules will depict flat urban scenery I chose to lay a sheet of cork on the plywood to keep everything level.

I had cut the plywood tops a week or two back so they were ready.  I unrolled the cork and trimmed two sheets to fit each of the two pieces of plywood allowing a small overhang all the way around on each piece.

Once I had the cork cut I coated the cork and each piece of plywood with liberal coats of contact cement.  I used an old canvas drop cloth to protect the floor.

I used "nonflammable" contact cement.  It cleans up with soap and water making it easy to clean the paint brush I used for application.

I waited about 40 minutes for the cement to dry somewhat and get tacky.  Once it was ready my wife helped me set the plywood panels over their respective cork sheets.  You only get one shot at this with contact cement so we were careful to maintain the cork overhang on all sides before carefully lowing the plywood onto the cork.  We then pressed each sheet down to make sure the contact cement was grabbing good.  I then flipped each panel over and trimmed the excess cork from around the edges using a hobby knife with a #11 blade.

Once trimmed each panel has a nice flush edge so the module fascia will be able to fit snugly.

Next I will move to the framing and attaching the plywood tops to the modules.  I hope to get that completed this weekend along with assembling the module leg sets.  Check back for updates!

First Modules

Here's a few photos showing the first two modules constructed for the CSX PA Sub. They were constructed following standards established for Free-moN. This standard was selected as the primary objectives align closely with my desires ...mainly to promote hi-fidelity prototypical scale model railroading, ensure reliable track and electrical operation, and encourage visual continuity between modules.

These modules were originally going to be a large yard representing the ex-L&N Goulding Yard in Pensacola but I'm leaning toward making them a generic staging yard that can be used at the end of a module set or possibly split to use as stub staging at the ends of a point-to-point modular setup.



Each module is 1'x6' and utilizes a 6" deep birch ply end plate. The legs are 1x2 ripped from wider stock and are hinged. A folding brass plated brace is used on each leg set on opposite sides. The frames and leg sets are painted with satin black to provide a finished appearence as well as help with sealing the wood to avoid changes with humidity since these modules may well travel to shows and be exposed to a variety of environments. A planned rail head height of 50" and the 12" module width does not provide the utmost stability on idividual modules. However, my past experience with modular setups shows stabilty increases as modules are added ...especially once curves or corner modules are employed. So when setup for operation the stability should be more than adequate.



Eye bolts and t-nuts were used to provide leveling and height adjustment capability for each module. Eye bolts were chosen since they allow easy adjustment by hand. First, a hole was drilled to accept the t-nut and allow depth for the length of the eye bolt.



Next the t-nut was tapped into place with a hammer.



Then an eye bolt with its stop nut was inserted.



Finally, the eye bolts were adjusted as needed to provide level stance for the modules and the stop nut was snugged against the t-nut. This adjustment can be easily changed when the modules are moved.



Finally, a parting shot showing a few pieces of rolling stack and a couple of Atlas code 55 #7 turnouts to give an idea of the real estate available for development!